• Category Archives Omega Race (2)
  • [Article 6012]Omega Race (2) :: Initial conditions

    Directly from US I bought this Omega Race few years ago. Unfortunately the cab has been damaged during the transport but it’s complete and this is enough to decide to restore it.

    I didn’t take pics when the cab arrived because it was covered by other cabs. anyway you can understand the conditions through these pics

    the grid picjed a knock
    the grid picjed a knock
    metal edges are dirty but in decent conditions
    metal edges are dirty but in decent conditions
    THis is a problem: edges on the back are completely "frayed" because of the umidity or I don't know what
    THis is a problem: edges on the back are completely “frayed” because of the umidity or I don’t know what

     

    the rest…

    this is the most important problem:
    omegarace_0103

    the cabinet was splitting in two parts.

     



  • [Article 6026]Omega Race (2) :: Bottom…

    As usual I start from here.

    Bottom was curved due to the the 2 transformers weight.

    omegarace_0201

    First of all I restored the foot supports even if I decided to not use them (I usually use castors under my cabs with European dimensions).

    1. I removed and cleaned the supports
    2. I removed most of the rust
    3. I combined the rust (protecting the support) with Neofer product
    4. Then I painted them with a protective chrome effect paint

    I removed, cleaned and made the same process to the metal profile.

     

    Then I pointed my attention to  the back castors.

    Then I used 2 wood panels. The first, smaller, to fill the curved part, the second to reinforce the structure.

    THen I reassembled everything and mounted the new castors instead of the original foot.

     



  • [Article 6076]Omega Race (2) :: Back side

    The back side has been quite complicated to restore.

    Edges were quite damaged and in general the MDF was compromised.

    First of all I removed all parts

    THis was the status of the edges (t-molding included but we will work on it later)

    omegarace_0404 omegarace_0403

     

     

    First of all I used wood putty for the bottom part and then I used waterproofing paint on all parts

    then I modeled both putty and edges with sand paper

    omegarace_0409

    Then I used flatting for parquet in order to give back consistency to the MDF and then black paint.

    … last parts…



  • [Article 6107]Omega Race (2) :: Inside

    As I told before the cab had some problems and needed to be reinforced. In several parts one of the side separated from the rest of the cab.

    omegarace_0502

    So I spent a night with glue and metal parts trying to reassemble the cab.

     

    omegarace_0506

    In the mean time I cleaned some parts

    After that I checked the electrical part.

    All voltages are ok in all steps:

    Before MT-88: 0k 220Vac

    After MT-88 and before MT-89: ok 125Vac, fluorescent lamps work properly

    After MT-89: ok

    After power regulator board: 5V OK, 12V for coin door and marquee ok, 12V for audio is 15V. I’ll check.

     

     

     

     

     

     

     



  • [Article 6128]Omega Race (2) :: Yet another Coin door

    yes…

    probably if I summed all the time spend restoring coin doors I could reach years…

    Initial conditions. Not so good, sot so bad.

    First of all I removed all parts, Midway plate rivets included.

    Then I used the usual abrasive sponge (I can’t translate better than this) on metal parts and prepared a couple of new bulbs.

    Usual procedure for the frame and the main panel:

    1. removing the paint
    2. rust-fixing paint
    3. flating
    4. black paint

    This is the result, trying to give the original aspect

    omegarace_1021

    Same for the panel…

    omegarace_1023

    THE END:

     

     

     



  • [Article 6207]Omega Race (2) :: Edges and T-molding

    This cab hasn’t a real t-molding. It is made just rounding the edges and painting them in black.

    After years all these parts were damaged and I had do be drastic to have a good result.

    These were the conditions before any action

    so I sanded all parts

    and I smoothed using a flatting paint and sanding again

    omegarace_0909

    Internally I used a satin-black, glossy-black for the edges.

    and that’s all.



  • [Article 6237]Omega Race (2) :: PCB – part 1

    This was the PCB

    omegarace_1301So the acid made its job.

    The board had been socketed already

    omegarace_1302

    But I realized the entity of the damages once I removed such those sockets!

    And I decided to dedicated a lot of time to remove all damaged parts

    omegarace_1305

    This is the board now

    …even if some tracks have gone

    omegarace_1309

    Now I’m keeping pictures place by place so resocketing the board I can check which track works and which not.

     

     

     

     



  • [Article 6250]Omega Race (2) :: PCB – part 2

    Once cleaned all damaged parts I made photos of each chip position in order to always have a visual representation of the trucks behind the new sockets. I signed the IC position and it’s location on the PCB. Here some examples:

     

    Then I socketed and replaced resistors and filters.

    omegarace_1319

    And then Kynar Wire!

    omegarace_1320

     

    Plugging the board I had a good surprise because the game started BUT after few seconds the vectors hide for a while.

    Running the self test I have the following errors:

    • BBU RAM S4: BAD
    • V RAM2 J1 and or (L/M)1: BAD
    • V RAM4 (J/K)1 and/or (N/P)1: BAD
    • V ROM2 F1: BAD

    Actually not so bad.

     

    All the  RAMs/ROM (but BBU RAM) share the VECTOR ADDRESS BUS, from SMEM0 to SMEM9 controlled by 74157 in positions K3, L3, M3.

     

    MAIN ADDRESS BUS (MA0..9) and PROGRAM ADDRESS BUS (SEQA0..9) are connected to these 74157

     

    I can see BBU RAM (5101) uses the MAIN ADDRESS BUS too, so I’ll check if S4 pins 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 and 21 are correctly on the bus and if all lines arrive to 74244 in (P/N)6 (pins 3, 5, 7, 9, 12, 14,16,18). This will be the first test I’ll perform.

     



  • [Article 6270]Omega Race (2) :: PCB – part 3

    Here the problems I had yesterday.

    1. BBU RAM S4: BAD
    2. V RAM2 J1 and or (L/M)1: BAD
    3. V RAM4 (J/K)1 and/or (N/P)1: BAD
    4. V ROM2 F1: BAD

     

    1 – It was related to a power problem. I can’t understand connecting the oscilloscope ground to the game ground the probe wire becomes hot. Anyway problem solved.

     

     

    2 – V RAM2: This was the most complex error. The analysis made yesterday had no success but considering now the problem was related to J1 and or (L/M)1 only I pointed my attention to the “Chip enable” circuit. After some tests I could see I forgot to rebuild the track between 7404 in position PR1 PIN 8 to 7432 in position R1 pin 10.

    omegarace2_troubleshooting

    3 – V RAM4: (J/K)1 2114 was faulty. I just replaced it.

     

    4 – V ROM2 F1: ROM was actually bad and I replaced it with a new one.

     

    This is the self-test result. I’m sorry I didn’t manage Z signal 😀 😀 😀

    omegarace_1321

    so, PCB now is ok…

     

    What have I to do now?

    • No sound to the right speaker
    • Monitor (not working)
    • Back panel

     



  • [Article 6277]Omega Race (2) :: Sound and Monitor

    Sound now works properly. I had to clean the speaker contacts.

    About the monitor:

    It is in very good shape.

    Plugging it to the cab I had the spot killer on and no lights on the neck.

    I cleaned all connectors but it was not sufficient. Then I realized that moving the cables I had some reactions and I checked the connectors solders and the red one on the main board connecting it to the HV unit has at least 5 pins interrupted. So 10 minutes with a solder and I remade the board like new.

    omegarace_1603

     

    Assembling the monitor inside the cabinet and cleaning the yellow layer and the black cardboard I can say most of the job has been done…

    omegarace_1604 omegarace_1605

    Most of the job has been done. Now the back panel is missing. Actually I don’t remember if I have it somewhere in my garage or I have to remake it. We will talk about this next week.