Space Invaders

  • Manufacturer: Midway
  • Year: 1978

Useful info

  • Cabinet type: Cocktail
  • Measures (WxHxD): 82,0 x 77,0 x 56,0 cm
  • Working voltage: 220V
  • Maximum consumption: 92,0W 0,455A
  • Technology: Vertical B/W raster monitor with colored overlay

Classic of the classics, it is a game developed by Toshihiro Nishikado. The player pilots a vehicle on the surface of the planet moving it horizontally only protected by four barriers that each time they are hit decrease their effectiveness. At the top is an (ordered) horde of invaders who shoot and come zigzagging in unison to conquer the land. The aim is to shoot and destroy all invaders, perhaps even hitting some UFOs that sporadically cross the screen. Each level consists of a single wave of invaders while the game ends when all lives are lost.

The cabinet in the collection is the classic Midway cocktail (manufacturer of the American version of this game). The wood conditions are excellent, as well as the brightness of the monitor and the state of the internal parts. The silkscreen of the glass shows cracks that have been fixed permanently.

Directly from UK

17 September 2015

I bought these cocktails from UK, 2 for me and 1 for a friend of mine (Deluxe).   Both my cocktails are Space Invaders Cocktail Midway but one of them has been strongly converted, with additional buttons and color monitor inside. Actually I was convinced to buy another Deluxe but probably I had a misunderstanding with the seller.   Anyway let’s focus on this fantastic cocktail!   Alessio Matteo and I were very curious about what we could find inside; in fact we bought these cocktails without any knowledge on the internal status. Deluxe cocktail has been converted to but to a single button – 2 direction game so the levers and the entire control panels were ok.  

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My cocktail worked for a couple of days but now the main board freezes on the first garbage image.



18 September 2015

Monitor is completely original and fully working; I just removed some dust and nothing else…

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This is the HV unit


And here there is a more detailed pic of the main board

Picture controls are on the chassis back side


Control panels

18 September 2015

Control panels were not in so bad conditions but actually I wanted to understand if I could rebuild the arts not using an overlay. These are the initial conditions.

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I LOVE the bulbs behind the white plexi!!!

I had to clean the alu surfaces completely. That’s a pity, I know…

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Before cleaning I scanned both CPs and I re built them with PSP.

Then I printed all elements on a special paper for DECALS can be printed with an inkjet (waterslide decal paper). Something like this:

After that it’s necessary to spray a protective film in order to preserve the colors (consider that you printed the arts on the glue and you have to fix it). Here I’m spraying on a test.

Once I was sure of the result I printed all parts in multiple instances because I haven’t so much attitude with decals 😀

I cut all parts and I put each single part into the water for 30 seconds and then on the final surface.

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Once both surfaces dried completely I spayed again a protective matte transparent film and the surfaces became uniform.

The last step: I reassembled all parts

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The result is not perfect but I’m satisfied enough 😀

Control Panel Assembling

21 September 2015

Once the overlay has been remade I reassembled both CPs. I changed all bulbs. At the first time I used LED bulbs as you can see here; on the right a LED bulb, on the left a filament one.


I decided to use new filament bulbs obviously but every time there are bulbs very close to plastic part I try to use LEDs because I’m scared that filament bulbs can deform those parts. We will see.


(as you can see I replaced the bulb types with the same described into the parts catalog list)

Ok, these are the mounted CPs as they look now

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21 September 2015

T-molding had significant breakdowns on the corners so I decided to use part of my Star Castle T-molding in order to replace the old one. Don’t worry I’ve to restore my Star Castle and I have new T-molding stored somewhere 🙂


I cut the new parts and I installing them with some glue.

Then I cleaned removing the exceeding glue

This is the result (you already saw it into the post regarding the CPs re assembling)

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5 October 2015

Glass was very dirty but not so much damaged.

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As you now the glass art is very delicate so I fixed it with a black paint and then I used a black between the glass and the wood

This is the result

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Glass supports

5 October 2015

I made a little bit of work to the glass supports.

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I cleaned sanded and repainted them with a protective matte black paint

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Coin door

6 October 2015

Here there are the 2 coin doors I worked on.

  A bit of rust and scratches somewhere.

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Internally everything seems to be ok.

Then I sanded and painted all black parts with matte black protective paint

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That’s all

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The Table

9 October 2015

I had to o some work on the foot but it was in good conditions  

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After cleaning I pained wood and metal parts removing rust where needed.

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Serial number?

This is the result before remounting the glass

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Last pics

17 February 2016

Here the last pics  

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